Obuse, Japan: Hokusai’s home away from hometown

March 12th, 2010By Category: Travel

Obuse is a peaceful town whose quaint country beauty is enhanced by abundant orchards and sweeping views of distant mountaintops. Known for its idyllic setting and artistic sensibility, this tiny geographical gem is only a half hour train ride away from Nagano City. Its folksy appeal is immediately evident on the short walk from the station to the center of town. The clean, quiet streets are lined with cheerful flowerpots while most homes and storefronts are crowned with old-fashioned, Edo style roofs.

A very generous person surprised me with a trip out there on my birthday, waking me up at dawn to catch a Shinkansen to Nagano prefecture. I didn’t understand the plan, but was very intrigued when we stepped out onto a platform in the middle of what seemed like an endless meadow. After a brief stroll, we arrived at the center of town. Though the main square was abuzz with activity, I found the relatively restrained hum of tourism to be a refreshing departure from the frenzied crowds characteristic of more popular destinations in Japan. Indeed, Obuse became famous for charming Katsushika Hokusai, the artist best known for his ubiquitous painting of what has become an iconic wave. In the twilight of his life, he made it his “home away from hometown”. In his memory, a spare, yet well curated,museum has been devoted to honoring his life’s work.

Famous for its tradition of superior sake production, even early morning arrivals are welcome to pull up a stool at the tasting bar inside the historic Masuichi brewery. Stepping back out into the sunshine, curious visitors who meander into the courtyard will be rewarded by the sight of a towering pomegranate tree that appears to have been pulled straight from the pages of a storybook.

Since several sips are usually all it takes to whet an appetite, the next order of the day would be lunch. Delicious, high quality fare abounds all over town, though a meal at the brewery’s excellent Kurabu restaurant is not to be missed. When in season, the meaty kuri, or chestnut, will be the star of any set menu.

View Larger Map Before heading home, consider popping into Pâtisserie Rond-to, an adorable French pastry shop not far from the Hokusai-kan. A slow cup of coffee accompanied by one of their gorgeous sweets would be the perfect ending to a perfect day.

Author of this article

Sylvia Saracino

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