All roads led to Tokyo. Anyone who has travelled in Japan will have heard of the Tokaido, even if they didn’t know the significance of the word. The eastern sea road ran between the Emperor’s court in Kyoto and the Shogun’s capital in Edo (Tokyo). Now it’s the name given to the shinkansen line that follows the same route.
Less well known is the Nakasendo, which began and ended at the same two points of power in feudal Japan, but followed a different path, winding through the mountainous interior. Like the Tokaido, most of it has either been modernised or obliterated. Some sections however are well preserved. The stretch between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku, crossing the border of Gifu and Nagano, is probably the most famous.
In the latter quarter of the last century, residents of the two former post towns (stopping places on the road) got together to fight both progress and apathy, and restored the area to its former appearance. They did a splendid job. Although modernity creeps in, and the architectural free-for-all that blights all Japanese towns is never more than a street or two away, enclaves of Edo era beauty have been created, catering now for the tourist trade rather than passing travellers with business in the big cities.
Although the crowds and the numerous car parks and coach tours testify otherwise, traditional houses, shops and streets aren’t the only draw. For those, like myself, who enjoy their nature wild yet peaceful, the 8km walk between the two towns holds more attraction, and more pleasing photo opportunities.
The train from Nagoya took us to Nakatsugawa where we caught a tourist-friendly bus to Magome. From the west this is the easiest way if you don’t have access to a car or intend walking. The stretch of Nakasendo here reaches an elevation of 800m. Starting at Magome makes the walk a little easier, as Magome sits higher than Tsumago. From the bus stop follow the human chain back and left, up through the perfectly preserved streets.
The route is well signposted in English, Japanese and Korean, and walking on the stone surface is a pleasure made all the more obvious by the few sections of tarmac that jarred my knees and destroyed my samurai daydreams. This is the Japan of the photos, of the prints, of Kurosawa and Basho. Tall bamboo forests, terraced rice fields, carp ponds and wooden waterwheels vie for space on your memory card. Clouds drift through the patchwork green mountains towering on all sides. There was a light drizzle on the day we were there, and so we had the world to ourselves.
A little over halfway, two waterfalls of the clearest water cascade. This spot is a touch busier, as those who drive from one town to the next stop off here to check the falls off their ‘to do’ lists. There are benches and the thundering water has opened the area out, making it a decent place to take a break.
Of the two towns, Magome is more picture-esque, benefiting from its elevated position and lack of space in which to sprawl. There is more in Tsumago, making it a better destination should you be tiring and in need of refreshment. Lining this lively stretch of the road are shops, restaurants, museums, a post office and a tourist information office. There are also much more people, a factor that contributed heavily to our decision to continue through the town and out the other side. When you reach Tsumago is it possible to take a bus or taxi back to Magome, or to either Nagiso or Nakatsugawa stations. It’s even possible to turn around and walk back, should you have the energy. We were still in the mood for movement and not for other people, so the 3.5km walk to Nagiso station was agreed upon without a word. The route winds on in much the same rustic vein as before but, since few tourists come this way, the signage drops off, though not enough to induce confusion.
From Nagiso the local train returns you to Nakatsugawa from where, for better or for worse, you are once more in contact with 21st century Japan.
